IP-rated lighting from China: what IP44, IP65, and IP67 mean for bathrooms and outdoor areas
4 October 2026 · 9 min read
Why an IP rating mistake fails at final inspection
An electrician who finds an IP44-rated downlight sitting in the shower zone of a bathroom will not connect it, whatever the build program says. That means a re-order, a wait on freight, and a delayed final inspection, at the point in a build when every week of delay is expensive. The same mistake outdoors is slower to show but just as costly: an alfresco pendant rated for indoor use only will corrode and fail within a year or two on an exposed deck, well before the fit-out budget has been forgotten.
This guide covers what an IP rating number actually means, what AS/NZS 3000 expects in bathroom zones, what outdoor and coastal fittings need beyond the IP number, how IP rating relates to (and is separate from) SAA/RCM electrical approval, and what a realistic landed cost looks like for an outdoor lighting package.
What the IP number actually means
IP stands for Ingress Protection, and the rating is always two digits: the first for solid objects, the second for liquids. Higher is more protected in each case.
| First digit (solids) | Protects against | Second digit (liquids) | Protects against |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | No protection | 0 | No protection |
| 2 | Fingers and objects over 12mm | 1-2 | Dripping water, vertical or at an angle |
| 4 | Tools and wires over 1mm | 4 | Splashing water from any direction |
| 5 | Dust protected (limited ingress) | 5 | Water jets from a nozzle |
| 6 | Dust tight | 6 | Powerful water jets |
| - | - | 7 | Temporary immersion to 1m |
| - | - | 8-9 | Continuous or high-pressure immersion |
So IP44 means reasonable protection from small tools and splashing water, suitable for a lot of general indoor use but not for anywhere water can spray directly or pool. IP65 means fully dust tight and protected against water jets, the common standard for outdoor wall lights and garden fittings. IP67 adds temporary immersion resistance, relevant for in-ground or near-pool fittings.
AS/NZS 3000 bathroom zones and what each one needs
The wiring standard AS/NZS 3000 divides a bathroom into zones based on proximity to water, and each zone has a minimum IP requirement for fixed electrical fittings. As a general guide (always confirm the current requirement with your electrician or certifier, since editions of the standard do get updated):
- Zone 0 (inside the bath or shower tray itself): the highest protection, typically IPX7 or higher, for low-voltage fittings only
- Zone 1 (above the bath or shower to around 2.25m): typically IPX4 minimum
- Zone 2 (600mm beyond zone 1, and around basins): typically IPX4 minimum
- Outside the zones: standard indoor fittings are generally acceptable, but check locally
Treat these as planning ranges, not a substitute for your electrician's sign-off. The zone boundaries and exact rating requirements are a licensed electrician's call on your specific bathroom layout, not something to self-certify from a blog post.
Outdoor and coastal lighting: IP65, IP66, IP67 and corrosion
For outdoor fittings, the IP rating only tells you about water and dust ingress, not about how the fitting will hold up to UV and salt air over years outside. A fitting can be a genuine IP65 and still corrode badly within two years on an exposed coastal site if the body is a poor-grade alloy or the gaskets are cheap.
What to check beyond the IP number:
- Housing material. Marine-grade stainless steel (commonly specified as 316 grade) resists coastal corrosion meaningfully better than 304 grade or painted mild steel. Ask the factory which grade is actually used, not just "stainless steel".
- Gasket quality. The seal around the lens and cable entry is usually the first thing to fail. Silicone gaskets generally outlast cheaper rubber compounds.
- UV-stable lens material. Polycarbonate lenses can yellow and become brittle under UV over time if they are not UV-stabilised; ask whether the resin is rated for outdoor use.
- An independent corrosion or salt spray test result, under ASTM B117 or an equivalent standard, specific to the fitting, not a generic factory brochure claim.
SAA/RCM approval is a separate question to the IP rating
A high IP rating does not mean a light fitting is legal to install in Australia. Electrical equipment still needs to meet AS/NZS electrical safety standards and carry the Regulatory Compliance Mark (RCM), the mark that has largely superseded the older SAA approval mark. A fitting can be genuinely IP65 and still lack valid RCM approval, which makes it non-compliant to connect regardless of how well it keeps water out. Our guide to importing lighting and compliance covers how to verify RCM approval properly; check it alongside the IP rating, not instead of it.
What to ask the factory before you order
- The IP rating and the specific test report it is based on, not just the number printed on the box
- Housing and gasket material specifications, by name (for example 316 stainless, silicone gasket), for anything coastal or exposed
- Current RCM approval documentation for the specific SKU
- Whether the driver or transformer (for LED fittings) carries its own separate IP rating, since a well-sealed fitting with an unsealed driver is still a weak point
- Warranty terms specific to outdoor and coastal use, since many general warranties exclude corrosion damage
Landed cost: an outdoor lighting package for a deck and alfresco area
Worked example for a typical outdoor package: six IP65 wall lights, four IP65 in-ground uplights, and one IP44 alfresco pendant for a covered area.
| Line item | Cost (AUD) |
|---|---|
| Factory price, 11-piece outdoor package | $420-$750 |
| Sea freight (consolidated with other items) | $60-$110 |
| Customs duty (approx. 5%, confirm current rate with your broker) | $25-$45 |
| GST (10% on CIF + duty) | $50-$90 |
| Customs clearance and delivery | $110-$200 |
| Total landed cost | $665-$1,195 |
| Equivalent range at Australian retail | $1,800-$3,200 |
Duty rates and classifications can change and vary by fitting type, so treat the duty line as a planning figure and confirm the current rate with a customs broker before committing a budget.
Common mistakes with IP-rated lighting
Trusting the number on the box without a test report. IP ratings are self-declared by manufacturers unless independently tested. For anything going into a bathroom zone or an exposed outdoor location, ask for the underlying test documentation.
Using an IP44 fitting in a shower or splash zone. IP44 is common for general outdoor eaves lighting but is not enough for a bathroom zone that AS/NZS 3000 rates higher. Match the fitting to the actual zone, not the nearest-sounding description.
Ignoring the corrosion grade on a coastal site. A genuinely IP65 fitting in a cheap alloy housing will still corrode within a couple of years near salt air. Ask specifically about housing grade for coastal projects.
Assuming RCM approval implies a particular IP rating, or the reverse. The two are independent certifications covering different risks. Check both for every fitting.
Mixing IP ratings across one exposed run without checking the weakest link. A run of IP65 wall lights with one IP44 fitting at the end is only as protected as its weakest fitting in that location.
Frequently asked questions
What IP rating do I need for a bathroom downlight? It depends on the zone the downlight sits in, which your electrician determines against AS/NZS 3000 for your specific layout. As a general guide, fittings directly above a shower or bath need a higher rating (commonly IPX4 or above) than those well clear of any water zone, but always confirm with your electrician before ordering.
Can I use IP44 lights outdoors? Only in sheltered, non-exposed locations such as a covered porch away from direct spray. For anywhere exposed to rain, hosing, or direct weather, IP65 or higher is the usual minimum.
Does IP65 mean a fitting is fully waterproof? IP65 means protected against low-pressure water jets from any direction, which covers rain and hosing down, but it does not cover immersion. For in-ground or near-pool fittings that could be submerged, look for IP67 or higher.
What's the practical difference between IP65 and IP67? IP65 protects against water jets; IP67 adds protection against temporary immersion to around one metre. Choose IP67 for fittings that could end up underwater even briefly, such as in-ground garden lights in a spot prone to pooling.
Threadline sources lighting only from factories that can provide IP and RCM test documentation for the specific fitting, and we check gasket and housing quality at pre-shipment inspection before anything ships. See our lighting range or start a request with your fit-out list.
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